Top 100 Beers of 2019

#2

96
by John C. Tull
Cruise Control
Two Roads Brewing Co.

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Co-Founder & Brewmaster Phil Markowski Talks Cruise Control

Who was responsible for this beer’s recipe?
It was a group effort. We took a while to develop Cruise Control and did it in a measured and controlled way. We’d brew a pilot batch and then sample it across a spectrum of tasters across all departments of the company. I would then take the feedback, translate that into changes to the formulation and brew another batch. It was repeat, repeat, repeat until we got it exactly where we wanted it.

What sets this beer apart from other examples within the style?
German-style Helles is a beer that has a relatively narrow bandwidth. Differences between examples of the style can be downright hair-splitting. I wouldn’t say that our Cruise Control greatly stands out from other examples in that we target the hallmarks of that style: a refined character, the use of old-world malt and hops and achieving a balance between the malt and hops that makes you want to take another sip – before you’ve even finished the last one!

What makes this beer truly world-class?
Balance!

What is your favorite aspect of this beer (flavor, aroma, mouthfeel, etc.)?
What I like best about Cruise Control is the balance. It is alternatively malty and hoppy. What I think the old-world brewers do best is create this fine balance that weaves in and out of malt-dominant/hop-dominant character as the beer plays out across the palate. This is what we were striving for with Cruise Control and I think we’ve hit it!

How popular is this beer among your faithful fans?
Cruise Control is popular with a wide range of consumers, but if I had to generalize, I would say Cruise Control is most popular with the more mature drinker. I use the word mature carefully and with two meanings. In the first I’m referring to age, in that this drinker is someone who grew up in the pre-craft era and has an affinity for import-style lagers as opposed to highly hopped IPAs. Secondly, I use the term to describe someone who has been around craft beer for years and has come to appreciate not just hazy IPAs but the breadth of beers available, including (and perhaps increasingly) an affinity toward lagers. I don’t know a highly experienced brewer who doesn’t appreciate a well-made lager.

Judge’s Second Opinion

Sometimes all you want is a beer. Beer is a beverage that humans have enjoyed for literally thousands of years in various formats and guises. Fortunately for us, beer has evolved in parallel as we have progressed as a species in our scientific knowledge. Believe it or not, it wasn’t until the late 1800s before we understood the very basics of microbiology and the importance of sanitation in the brewing process to begin making and enjoying beer that was able to focus on the most basic ingredients: malt and hops.

Two Roads Cruise Control is one of these imminently quaffable yet simple beers. This Munich Helles beer keeps its focus on the restrained and balanced use of malt and hops. It hits all of the hallmarks of this style with an emphasis on clean, pilsner malt and European origin noble hops. Munich-produced beers are also characterized by the relatively high mineral content of the waters that emphasize the hops and tend to have a mineral quality that one can taste, particularly in the lighter lagers like Munich Helles. Two Roads Cruise Control either benefits from a similar water profile in the local brewing water, or the brewers took the time to adjust their water to better mimic the style. Either way, it’s an impressively authentic and clean-tasting brew.

Like you, I honestly love beer and all of the incredible variety that we can produce, even when we remain focused on only malt and hops. But there are often times when the most refreshing example of a wonderful beer is a throwback that is restrained and delivers something that is not weighed down by distractions. Sometimes all you want is a beer. Two Roads Cruise Control is a beer for those times. - John C. Tull